SOUROTI, Greece—Legend has it that nearly three decades ago, a
bearded Orthodox Christian mystic visiting here made an unsettling
prediction: Greece in the future would experience a "great disruption
and confusion," followed by hunger and political turmoil. Believers say this grim vision of Elder Paisios, an ascetic monk who
died in 1994, was actually a prescient glimpse of the upheaval now
gripping this debt-racked country—helping fuel a surge of interest in
the Orthodox holy man by Greeks struggling to make sense of a brutal
financial crisis. Elder Paisios, who spent much of his adult life as a hermit on the
monastic peninsula of Mount Athos in northeastern Greece, has become a
popular sensation—with tales of his prognostications and miracles he is
said to have performed posted online and recounted in popular books.
On Saturdays, hundreds of pilgrims line
up at Elder Paisios's gravesite here, waiting their turn to kneel, pray
and kiss the wooden cross that marks his final resting place. They ask
for help finding jobs, paying bills and surviving a downturn that has
upended their lives. "Paisios predicted many things, and his prophecies are now coming
true," said Costas Katsaounis, a 41-year-old military officer on a visit
to the shrine. "He foresaw the crisis. But he also said it would get
better, that we will overcome and prosperity will return. He's helped a
lot of people." Elder Paisios's fame in some ways echoes that of Michel de Notredame,
better known as Nostradamus, a 16th-century French apothecary who
believers say foretold everything from the rise of Hitler to the terror
attacks of Sept. 11. "Figures like Paisios represent the shaman, the magician of the
tribe," said Alexandra Koronaiou, a sociologist at Panteion University
of Social and Political Sciences in Athens. "They are the incarnation of
a transcendental, invisible power."
With Greece's economy in the fifth year of a grinding recession that
is expected to deepen further in 2013, unemployment above 25% and even
middle-class families struggling to feed their children, many Greeks
feel like their society is teetering on the brink of collapse, and they
are seeking solace. "When there is an event that brings an entire country to its knees,
people look for a religious explanation," said Vasilios Makrides, a
religious-studies professor and specialist on Orthodox Christianity at
the University of Erfurt in Germany. "They are seeking support from the
supernatural." That is driving a fresh boom in all things Paisios. The elder's
wizened and bearded face, peering out from below a black cap, adorns
devotional banners and cards inscribed with inspirational messages. Bookstores stock dozens of Paisios-related titles, from books
detailing his spiritual teachings to volumes filled with his commentary
on everything from the coming of the apocalypse to Greece's retaking of
Constantinople, once the seat of Byzantine emperors and now Istanbul.
"They sell like crazy," said Ionnis
Aivaliotis, who works at the Zoe religious bookstore in downtown Athens.
"Even nonbelievers are starting to read them. It gives people courage
to withstand what's coming." There is a Paisios diet guide—he was very thin—and a kids' book, "Once Upon a Time, Children, There Was Elder Paisios." Over the past two years, conservative newspaper Dimokratia has sold
350,000 copies of Paisios-related titles—from compilations of his
prophecies to his views on education. Other newspapers carry accounts of
his reputed miracles.
Elder Paisios, born Arsenios Eznepedis in central Anatolia in 1924,
is part of a long tradition of monastic spirituality that believers say
confers a power of divination—to see things others cannot, to interpret
signs and predict the course of events. Even before his death in 1994, he was well known in religious
circles, drawing the faithful to Mount Athos for spiritual guidance and
advice. Many expect that he will eventually be canonized. (A church
spokesman declined to comment.) But the recent increase in attention has prompted a backlash from
skeptics and drawn cautions from some in the Greek Orthodox Church
hierarchy. "People are looking for somewhere to turn," said the Rev. Vasilios
Havatzas, head of the church's charitable operations in Athens. "But
some are overreacting. They are making him into some kind of prophet,"
he said, adding: "That doesn't mean everything he said is right."
But in a sign of the broad support for Elder Paisios, Greek police
arrested 27-year-old Phillipos Loizos for creating a Facebook page that
poked fun at Greeks' belief in the miracles and prognostications of the
late monk. He was charged with blasphemy and insulting religion. The
blasphemy charge was later withdrawn.
Police received thousands of complaints about the page on the
social-networking site for Elder Pastitsios, a play on the monk's name.
Pastitsio is a traditional baked pasta dish similar to lasagna. An
ultranationalist lawmaker condemned the page in Parliament. Mr. Loizos said he was using satire to criticize the commercialization of the monk and his message. Many of Elder Paisios's purported prophecies resonate. "The people
will be so disappointed by the politicians of the two big parties, that
they will get sick of them," is one that rings true in an era when voter
support for the country's two mainstream parties, blamed for the
crisis, has dropped sharply.
In Souroti, about 20 miles from the northeastern Greek city of
Thessaloniki, busloads of pilgrims arrived one Saturday recently to see
the elder's grave. Young and old, they prayed and took pictures. Some
plucked a leaf of basil from a plant growing near the simple cross at
his head. Afterward in a gift shop in the basement of the rough-hewn stone
church, visitors bought postcards, plaques with images of Elder Paisios
and books by and about him, along with icons, crosses and other
religious paraphernalia. "There's a lot of uncertainty now. We don't know what is going to
happen," said Anastasia Constantinou, a waitress visiting the shrine who
said her family has had to cut back on meat, on driving their car and
on other normal activities as their income has fallen amid the downturn. "People find consolation in faith," Ms. Constantinou, 32, said. "Even
though everyday life is difficult, Paisios gives strength to people. He
helps them hold on."
Wall Street Journal, 3/12/2012
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